It is pretty obvious that you do not have a clueGo look me up GMCPHOTOGRAPHICS.co.uk and decide for yourself if I know a bit about landscape photography.
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It is pretty obvious that you do not have a clueGo look me up GMCPHOTOGRAPHICS.co.uk and decide for yourself if I know a bit about landscape photography.
About these patents:Asobinet has patent applications for wide angle zooms:
All require software corrections to fill the corners of a FF sensor. The lenses can be used with the electronic zoom adapter and are constant length, so probably hybrid lenses for video and photo.
- 16-30mm f2.8
- 15-35mm f2.8
- 14-28mm f2.8
Google translated link
Asobinet als has a patent applications for a fish eye lens with additional rear lens adapter for distortion correction.
Google translated link.
Omg! That portfolio is incredible!I think you are confusing my post with some one elses, so I'll let your rudeness slide. I asked you a simple question and I didn't choose to ignor anything.
Go look me up GMCPHOTOGRAPHICS.co.uk and decide for yourself if I know a bit about landscape photography.
Sometimes, with some people, it's just not worth arguing...It is pretty obvious that you do not have a clue. Great photo’s.
I think you are confusing my post with some one elses, so I'll let your rudeness slide. I asked you a simple question and I didn't choose to ignor anything.
Go look me up GMCPHOTOGRAPHICS.co.uk and decide for yourself if I know a bit about landscape photography.
The 15-35 mm in this patent application has more lenses than the existing RF15-35mm lens, so it is a different patent application. It might be the basis for a mk II hybrid version of the RF 15-35mm, but it might also remain a patent application and not turn into a product that you can buy one day.About these patents:
Are these more or lens the patents Canon used for creating the newly announced lens? Or are these different patents? If so, could the second one be a patent for a mkii of the 15-35mm F2.8?
Interesting. I wonder if there is a typical lead out time from patent filing to production, or if it's just all over the place. I honestly think the 15-35 gets an official markii label before anything else (again because it is the weakest offering in the 2.8 L zoom line up).The 15-35 mm in this patent application has more lenses than the existing RF15-35mm lens, so it is a different patent application. It might be the basis for a mk II hybrid version of the RF 15-35mm, but it might also remain a patent application and not turn into a product that you can buy one day.
Why suggestion of mkii´s would be:I honestly think the 15-35 gets an official markii label before anything else (again because it is the weakest offering in the 2.8 L zoom line up).
Both have brutal coma/astigmatism wide open. Both improve dramatically at around f/4, but this negates the point of having a fast prime.Good to know. Thx for sharing. Do you happen to know whether the 35mm F1.8 or the 24mm f1.8 is better for stars in terms of coma and astigmatism?
Ok, so they are basically the same. I own the 35mm F1.8 and while I can take some night sky pics with it, the quality isn't great for a big print. But I can relate to the IQ of the 24mm f1.8 now. thx. I agree, the 35mm suffers from coma and astigmatism a lot at f2Both have brutal coma/astigmatism wide open. Both improve dramatically at around f/4, but this negates the point of having a fast prime.
Nice pictureAs for astro, another technique is tracking. This reduces the need for super fast lenses. Trackers are cheaper than fast well-corrected lenses.
Here is an example taken with the 14-35 at f/4 14 mm 3200 iso 90 second exposures. Foreground untracked, sky tracked.
I took this photo last night, by chance.
View attachment 222225
Why suggestion of mkii´s would be:
1. RF 28-70mm F2
2. 24-105mm F4 L
3. RF 15-35mm F2.8
several years later:
4. RF 24-70mm F2.8 (it is really heavy, although it is an extraordinary lens)
Generally, I´m wondering if Canon is considering mkii´s for the 15-35mm and 24-70mm in order to differentiate them further from the 28-70mm F2.8 and 16-28mm F2.8 in terms of IQ and/ or features/ focal length (nope, probably not messing with 24-70mm)
Since the 70-200mm got an internal zoom version, I don't think the collapsible one will get a mkii anytime soon.
It is a halo lens and a statement lens. With that said, it should be absolutely top of the art.The 28-70 f/2 is an interesting take. I'm not sure it's a big enough seller to warrant updating just yet though. It still competes really well against the Sony outside of weight.
On of these days, I read a thread in a German camera forum. A member asked to state reasons to pick the 24-70mm F2.8 and 15-35mm F2.8 over both L versions, and how that would reflect in "price performance" value. Needless to say, there weren't too many answers. So, it got me thinking, Canon might be upping their game with the L lens, maybe just like with the 70-200mm L Z lens.You've cited one of the main reasons I'm so optimistic that the 15-35 gets a mkii first, and that's the IQ relative to the non L lenses Canon is offering. I do think Canon spends the next year or so filling out the range with non L lenses of similar quality to what has been released recently before moving on to touch the L glass for updates.
I might rent the 70-200mm Z for a wedding of one of ours friends, just because I´m curious and the reason justifies itAs for the 70-200s I'm not sure there will be a mkii of the original 2.8. The new Z is superior in every way outside of collapsed size. I love my copy, but only because I can easily take it in a travel bag pretty much anywhere. If I were buying today I'd go Z.
This all points to shooting a grid with a normal-ish lens like 35 mm or 28 mm and then stitching with Hugin or PTGui.but my goal would be to one day have a star trail or Milky Way pic which I print in XXXL and hang it up at home. I'll figure it out how to get best quality out of budget![]()
Yes astro does take some dedication. In my case this required fiddling with metal gear with bare hands at -18C for quite some time trying to polar align, and so on. Then there are the long after-midnight drives to get away from light pollution, which is an issue even here in Canada.Astrophotography takes a lot of planning and timing.
Seems soThis all points to shooting a grid with a normal-ish lens like 35 mm or 28 mm and then stitching with Hugin or PTGui.
Wow, -18C is reaaaaaally coldYes astro does take some dedication. In my case this required fiddling with metal gear with bare hands at -18C for quite some time trying to polar align, and so on. Then there are the long after-midnight drives to get away from light pollution, which is an issue even here in Canada.
I can only do that when I´m on vacation AND it doesn't interfere with important plans of my wife and me. So, I gotta be patientThen there is timing - days with no moon, no clouds, and a stable atmosphere are rare. When they happen you have to be willing to drop everything and go, even when your agenda for the next day is filled.
Yes, back to the real topic. It won't be an easy, magic entrance to astrophotography. I'm curious what limitations the long-term, real-life use reviews of the 28-70mm f2.8 and 16-28mm f2.8 will show. So far, judging from MFT´s and so what, it almost sounds too good to be true.In any case, f/2.8 on the new 16-28 is nice, but it is not a magic bullet that somehow opens the doors to easy astro.
Consider buying the Samyang 14/2.8 (or 14/2.4). Shooting 7-9 panels in portrait mode can cover foreground and sky but you need to take exposures less than 20 second shots to reduce star trailing.At the moment, that's fine, but my goal would be to one day have a star trail or Milky Way pic which I print in XXXL and hang it up at home. I'll figure it out how to get best quality out of budget![]()
Trackers take time learn how to polar align (I suggest using an app rather than visual - especially in the southern hemisphere or when trees/mountains block your view of the poles) and be able to use in the dark by feel when cold.A tracker does sound nice, but it also another item to carry and account weight for. I even have a list of trackers to look through. I just don't know how serious I want/ can pursue this. Astrophotography takes a lot of planning and timing. New moon (preferably) limits the days of shooting, sky pollution (there is sooooo much in Germany), travel plans with my wife (I can't always adjust them to "get this one shot", Ill need three days...) and since I´m a teacher, staying out on Tuesday night, hundreds of kilometers away (I live in a very crowded, light polluted region in Germany) isn't an option. And if by chance all those things fall into place, the sky is cloudedThe lack of opportunities lets me hesitate on buying a tracker and/ or a fast prime (which usually are expensive) so therefore I´m currently working with what I got
But I do appreciate all the advice! One day, I'll make use of it, even if I need a sabbatical for it![]()
Depending on where in Germany you live, a trip to Austria would be a possibility. The link below says, it is one of the best places in Europe for star gazing. I didn‘t know that before. What I know is, that they offer affordable Astro photography workshops in the Gesäuse NP.Seems so
Wow, -18C is reaaaaaally cold
I can only do that when I´m on vacation AND it doesn't interfere with important plans of my wife and me. So, I gotta be patient
Yes, back to the real topic. It won't be an easy, magic entrance to astrophotography. I'm curious what limitations the long-term, real-life use reviews of the 28-70mm f2.8 and 16-28mm f2.8 will show. So far, judging from MFT´s and so what, it almost sounds too good to be true.
Thx for the example and the adviceConsider buying the Samyang 14/2.8 (or 14/2.4). Shooting 7-9 panels in portrait mode can cover foreground and sky but you need to take exposures less than 20 second shots to reduce star trailing.
Use PTgui for stitching and StarXterminator for star removal/processing in PS and then bring the stars back if you wish. Assuming you get a decent copy of the lens, then the coma is well controlled. You won't see coma in the corners except for the far left and far right corners of the final image as the corners are removed due to the stitching.
No problem printing very large as you have a lot of pixels in the final image.
The attached photo was taken with the Samyang 14/2.8 and R5 in bortle 1 skies untracked. Note that tracking would not have improved the shot as masking out the trees when merging foreground and sky would have been a nightmare.
I´ve looked at your Flickr (I´m actually following you) and your have so many great night sky picsThe EF8-15/4 is also good if you have fairly dark skies with a strong foreground element in a single image eg a lighthouse.
Buying second hand was a no-brainer for unique shots for me.
See my Flickr page for other examples.
I imagine it'll take a longer time to learn especially if you have to use it in the dark. Dealing with your camera can already be quite difficult in the dark if you haven't memorized all the controls and every step.Trackers take time learn how to polar align (I suggest using an app rather than visual - especially in the southern hemisphere or when trees/mountains block your view of the poles) and be able to use in the dark by feel when cold.
You also need a dual ballhead tripod setup to allow horizontal panning between shots.
Worst aspect is their weight but this is not so bad as wind can be your enemy for longer exposures. Always a pain when wind ruins a 2 minute tracked exposure and then needing to do it again. Always check exposure before taking the next one as the worst scenario is getting home and seeing that wind ruined one panel which then causes the whole panorama to be ruined.
The used the Sigma 20mm F1.4 when I went to New Zealand in 2019. It is a very heavy lens (1.1 kg) and with the adapter it was just too heavy for everyday use, so I sold it. But the F1.4 is absolutely amazing in terms of light gatheringTrackers are normally used for the sky and untracked panoramas for the foreground. The issue is then to merge them and a careful mask is needed to merge seamlessly eg if you use a Sigma EF20/1.4 (discontinued) like I have done in the past which is also quite heavy.
We have three "dark sky national parks" (can't think of the correct English word) in Germany, as far as I known. They are on my list, but every one of is quite a bit away from where we live. Except for the alps, they don't really attract my wife as vacation destinyI googled Germany astro landscapes and there seems to be a number of reasonably dark sky areas. They aren't bortle 1 skies but perhaps you can get the locations to practice
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-e&q=germany+astro+landscapes
If I decide to buy a tracker, I'll definitely book a workshop. Don´t know where and when yet, but I will do so. I bookmarked Dan Zafra, the images look great. In NZ, there are two photographers I´d consider for workshop as well and I found a couple in Germany.If you really want to focus on astro then consider Dan Zafra's workshops if you can afford them (or copy their itinerary). I can never understand why people in Europe don't consider Iceland as a holiday destination as the flight from Berlin is less than 4 hours or to Tromso in 3 hours.
https://capturetheatlas.com/photo-tours/
Thx for the link! I knew that the Austrian alps are a good place to shoot astrophotography. Like you, I didn't know it is one of the best places. Funnily, I am half Austrian (my dad is originally from Vienna) and do visit every two years now. My cousins & aunt come visit me the other year. This year, we're going to Vienna for five days and then to the bavarian alps (Berchtesgaden & Eibsee/ Zugspitze). I'll try to get some astro/ night sky shots there. In two years, we'll be going to Vienna and afterwards to the Austrian alps. I'll have look in the map, where exactly to goDepending on where in Germany you live, a trip to Austria would be a possibility. The link below says, it is one of the best places in Europe for star gazing. I didn‘t know that before. What I know is, that they offer affordable Astro photography workshops in the Gesäuse NP.
![]()
Astro-Austria
Undisturbed beauty and no light pollution - why Austria is the best place to for stargazing in all of Europe.press.austria.info