It’s time to fill those memory cards. Canon releases firmware v1.8.1 for the Canon EOS R5. 400mp stills are now possible

[Mt Spokane Photography]

Perhaps some people’s setups aren’t as stable as they think. I have a rock solid tripod and head (RRS TVC-33 and BH-55). When I set them up in my living room, there’s vibration transmitted through the hardwood flooring over a wooden subfloor. In the basement (tile/wood over concrete slab) or garage (bare concrete slab), there is none.

I just took a shot that I thought was stable but at 100%, it showed a ton of movement. I had it on a table and was pretty careful I thought. I may experiment a little more being even more careful.

 

[Mt Spokane Photography]

I just took a shot that I thought was stable but at 100%, it showed a ton of movement. I had it on a table and was pretty careful I thought. I may experiment a little more being even more careful.

I took 6 more. The shutter was pretty slow, so even on a rubber pad, each of the 6 shots had varying amounts of vibration with the best showing greatly reduced artifacts but still too much. I'll try it on concrete with my heavy tripod and fast shutter tomorrow. I'll use a remote shutter release as well. Even then, vibration may find its way in. I used my 24-70 lens which has no IS. I'll try my 100L tomorrow to see if that is any different with IS off and on.

 

[djack41]

Lol. Sure, just take 9 shots and move your camera a distance of 1.46 µm between each of them. Let us know how that works out for you, unless you come to understand what pixel shift actually is before you try it.

Pixel shift could be interesting but only on a completely static subject which severely limits use. Oh well.

 

[Jsjamesok]

I've been trying to make a focus that with this and I notice that about half my shots get a lot of artefacts, like halftone dots in classic printing.
Since all IS (both lens and in-body) will be disabled, I'm trying to remove as much vibrations as possible. The camera on a focus rail, on a sturdy table, using my phone as bluetooth remote after waiting a few seconds after advancing the rail.

More experimentation needed

I am starting at the top but the two or 10 second delay seems necessary. It seems like the app would work also.

 

[Dragon]

Some thoughts on camera stability for this feature. Sqrt (400/45)=2.98, so the effect is to increase the reach of a lens by a factor of 3. The total exposure time seems to be on the order of 1/2 sec unless you have a slow shutter for low light. That means a shot with a 200mm lens needs stabilty at least equal to a 600mm lens with a 1/2 second shutter (and no stabilizer) and add a stop to make sure the stitch works. That means a good tripod with a balanced lens/camera mount and NO wind or a beanbag on big rock. Anyone who has worked with long (500 -1000mm) mirror lenses will understand the requirements. Based on an initial test, the results are amazingly good if you have very sharp and fast lens. Fast, because dispersion kicks in at low f numbers with the effective pixel pitch. Anything slower than f/4 is going to noticeably decrease the sharpness. I would also note that the air needs to be good, because thermals (even at short distances) will degrade the result. This feature will be easiest to use with wide lenses, but they need to be really good wide lenses.

 

[Dragon]

I took 6 more. The shutter was pretty slow, so even on a rubber pad, each of the 6 shots had varying amounts of vibration with the best showing greatly reduced artifacts but still too much. I'll try it on concrete with my heavy tripod and fast shutter tomorrow. I'll use a remote shutter release as well. Even then, vibration may find its way in. I used my 24-70 lens which has no IS. I'll try my 100L tomorrow to see if that is any different with IS off and on.

The feature turns lens IS off automatically, so it will be off either way.

 

[Jsjamesok]

Did anyone else\'s camera freeze up after installing?

Finally stopped showing the post-update screen with no responsiveness to any control, and now black with no response to any control.

Not for me. Restarted itself after completion.

 

[Jsjamesok]

Interesting that you've got far better results than others. I wonder what you did that was different.
I assume that everyone was using a time delay to allow the camera to settle.

A few random thoughts:

Perhaps you just have a far more stable tripod.

Are IBIS and/or OIS automatically disabled in pixel-shift mode?
Or did you disable them when perhaps others didn't?
Maybe if IBIS remains enabled, the camera is fighting against itself?

I took a few shots before I remembered to do time delayed shutter. The bad examples I've seen matched the ones I took without a delayed shutter. I was on a stable tripod but sadly with nothing interesting to photograph.

 

[Jsjamesok]

Is worth noting that there’s no option to use any time delay when using the new IBIS High res feature. I agree it would make sense but both 2s and 10s are disabled.

Not for me. 2s made an enormous difference.

 

[Jsjamesok]

I took pictures in what Kodak would have called "cloudy bright" but wasn't being super technical. You see the nine shots taken-- has anyone tried to time the time between exposure 1 and number 9? I am curious if shutter exposure slows it down or speeds it up.

 

[shire_guy]

Just tried it on a salt shaker with the 10s delay and exposure time .5s.
Used a heavy kitchen table as the base. Worked as specified with no real artifacts except for maybe a hint of banding in the top, but that was probably the kitchen light. The detail when zoomed in was impressive.

 

[Deleted member 383640]

I took 6 more. The shutter was pretty slow, so even on a rubber pad, each of the 6 shots had varying amounts of vibration with the best showing greatly reduced artifacts but still too much. I'll try it on concrete with my heavy tripod and fast shutter tomorrow. I'll use a remote shutter release as well. Even then, vibration may find its way in. I used my 24-70 lens which has no IS. I'll try my 100L tomorrow to see if that is any different with IS off and on.

* To check images, use EOS Utility/Digital Photo Professional. EOS Utility/Digital Photo Professional requires a version upgrade.

 

[Deleted member 383640]

Seems like the real question here is why are some people getting weird artifacts, while others are not and their test images look amazing.
More research needs to be done.

* To check images, use EOS Utility/Digital Photo Professional. EOS Utility/Digital Photo Professional requires a version upgrade.

 

[Deleted member 383640]

Perhaps some people’s setups aren’t as stable as they think. I have a rock solid tripod and head (RRS TVC-33 and BH-55). When I set them up in my living room, there’s vibration transmitted through the hardwood flooring over a wooden subfloor. In the basement (tile/wood over concrete slab) or garage (bare concrete slab), there is none.

* To check images, use EOS Utility/Digital Photo Professional. EOS Utility/Digital Photo Professional requires a version upgrade.

 

[iheartcanon]

* To check images, use EOS Utility/Digital Photo Professional. EOS Utility/Digital Photo Professional requires a version upgrade.

Not sure why you keep quoting this.

As soon as the fw was available I installed it, took a test photo and imported it into Lightroom.

DPP is not the only way to look at it.

 

[Deleted member 383640]

Not sure why you keep quoting this.

As soon as the fw was available I installed it, took a test photo and imported it into Lightroom.

DPP is not the only way to look at it.

I quote that instruction from the text of the firmware update several times because people are constantly (also repeatedly) writing one and the same thing - that artifacts appear in pictures taken with the new option.
However, no one asked why Canon says that the captured photos should be passed through DPP.
Of course, you can see those photos in LrC, but then accept that you will have artifacts present.
The firmware explanation text clearly states how to view the results recorded with the new option. And here, I quote again: "* To check images, use EOS Utility/Digital Photo Professional. EOS Utility/Digital Photo Professional requires a version upgrade.".

 

[iheartcanon]

I quote that instruction from the text of the firmware update several times because people are constantly (also repeatedly) writing one and the same thing - that artifacts appear in pictures taken with the new option.
However, no one asked why Canon says that the captured photos should be passed through DPP.
Of course, you can see those photos in LrC, but then accept that you will have artifacts present.
The firmware explanation text clearly states how to view the results recorded with the new option. And here, I quote again: "* To check images, use EOS Utility/Digital Photo Professional. EOS Utility/Digital Photo Professional requires a version upgrade.".

"Of course, you can see those photos in LrC, but then accept that you will have artifacts present."

See now you are just wrong.

I do not have the artifacts mentioned. several others also mentioned not getting the artifacts.

So no need to to keep posting an irrelevant quote.

 

[dmelchor]

I quote that instruction from the text of the firmware update several times because people are constantly (also repeatedly) writing one and the same thing - that artifacts appear in pictures taken with the new option.
However, no one asked why Canon says that the captured photos should be passed through DPP.
Of course, you can see those photos in LrC, but then accept that you will have artifacts present.
The firmware explanation text clearly states how to view the results recorded with the new option. And here, I quote again: "* To check images, use EOS Utility/Digital Photo Professional. EOS Utility/Digital Photo Professional requires a version upgrade.".

The image shows exactly the same artifacts in Photoshop and in DPP

 

[eosuser1234]

Japan has many earthquakes. Tokyo has subways and trains everywhere. Good luck getting this to work in Japan.

 

[vikingar]

I used a Peak Design Travel tripod and got no artifacts. Definitely not the most stable tripod, but it worked. (2s delay, 0.5s exposure, 24-105f4L @ 105mm f/11). Perhaps try with longer shutter speeds?