Live View and Remote Release

[ray5]

Hi,
I seem to be having trouble using my remote release while using Live View. I use Vello's Wireless ShutterBoss Timer Remote with the 5D MK III. The on camera shutter release works fine. When I use the remote cable release without the live view it works fine but when I try it with live view it just doesn't work. I have to switch back to the viewfinder to take the shot or use the camera button. I noticed this during night shots as otherwise I don't use the remote release.
Is there an issue with this unit, or a setting I may have not activated/deactivated?
Thanks for your help.
Ray

 

[niteclicks]

I used mine on a 5DmkIII yesterday in live view with no problems. Some things to check like focus priority, mirror lockup,I do use back button focus. I assume since you said night shots you were in manual focus single shot ? I have never had a problem with mine that I couldn't trace back to me. ;D

 

[ray5]

I am pretty sure it's me or my settings. I was in Tv mode, on a tripod, do not use BBF, auto foucs, single shot.

 

[niteclicks]

I have noticed the live view focus is a lot slower in low light, so my guess is it couldn't get focus. You could try "quick focus" in live view, manual pg 207, and see if that helps. But I would use manual focus at night.

 

[jdramirez]

When I shoot in live view I disable auto focus... so it is more responsive to the shutter button. When I heard your problem that was the first thing that came to mind, but I'm not sure that is actually what is wrong. Good luck.

 

[ray5]

When I shoot in live view I disable auto focus... so it is more responsive to the shutter button. When I heard your problem that was the first thing that came to mind, but I'm not sure that is actually what is wrong. Good luck.

When you say disable auto focus do you mean switching the lens to MF or do you mean turn the camera to Manual from any other mode?

 

[mackguyver]

Try this - go into the Live View menu settings and then into the Silent Live View shooting mode settings. Change the setting to “Disable” and it should work. The first two silent Live View settings also disable the use of flash and screw up the older TS-E lens and extension tube exposures and I think it screw up the the cable release function as well.

 

[ray5]

Try this - go into the Live View menu settings and then into the Silent Live View shooting mode settings. Change the setting to “Disable” and it should work. The first two silent Live View settings also disable the use of flash and screw up the older TS-E lens and extension tube exposures and I think it screw up the the cable release function as well.

Great, will try that tonight. Another thing I noticed was the "Exp. SIM", what is that? I don't know if the subject I was shooting makes a difference but it was the Brooklyn Bridge, late at night. So low light conditions with the bridge lights and Manhattan skyline behind it. Thanks

 

[mackguyver]

Try this - go into the Live View menu settings and then into the Silent Live View shooting mode settings. Change the setting to “Disable” and it should work. The first two silent Live View settings also disable the use of flash and screw up the older TS-E lens and extension tube exposures and I think it screw up the the cable release function as well.

Great, will try that tonight. Another thing I noticed was the "Exp. SIM", what is that? I don't know if the subject I was shooting makes a difference but it was the Brooklyn Bridge, late at night. So low light conditions with the bridge lights and Manhattan skyline behind it. Thanks

That's exposure simulation - see the details below:

 

[jdramirez]

When I shoot in live view I disable auto focus... so it is more responsive to the shutter button. When I heard your problem that was the first thing that came to mind, but I'm not sure that is actually what is wrong. Good luck.

When you say disable auto focus do you mean switching the lens to MF or do you mean turn the camera to Manual from any other mode?

Disable at the lens.

 

[mackguyver]

When I shoot in live view I disable auto focus... so it is more responsive to the shutter button. When I heard your problem that was the first thing that came to mind, but I'm not sure that is actually what is wrong. Good luck.

When you say disable auto focus do you mean switching the lens to MF or do you mean turn the camera to Manual from any other mode?

Disable at the lens.

Setting your camera to back button focus achieves the same effect as it doesn't [slowly contrast-]AF when you press the shutter...

 

[ray5]

Try this - go into the Live View menu settings and then into the Silent Live View shooting mode settings. Change the setting to “Disable” and it should work. The first two silent Live View settings also disable the use of flash and screw up the older TS-E lens and extension tube exposures and I think it screw up the the cable release function as well.

Great, will try that tonight. Another thing I noticed was the "Exp. SIM", what is that? I don't know if the subject I was shooting makes a difference but it was the Brooklyn Bridge, late at night. So low light conditions with the bridge lights and Manhattan skyline behind it. Thanks

That's exposure simulation - see the details below:

Ok, should I disable it then?

 

[ray5]

When I shoot in live view I disable auto focus... so it is more responsive to the shutter button. When I heard your problem that was the first thing that came to mind, but I'm not sure that is actually what is wrong. Good luck.

When you say disable auto focus do you mean switching the lens to MF or do you mean turn the camera to Manual from any other mode?

Disable at the lens.

Ok, I have done that in the past. But, whether it was my eyes or whatever I have failed to nail the focus many times. I still use it when in the mood to try panoramas but many times not happy wiht the sharpness. Thanks

 

[mackguyver]

Try this - go into the Live View menu settings and then into the Silent Live View shooting mode settings. Change the setting to “Disable” and it should work. The first two silent Live View settings also disable the use of flash and screw up the older TS-E lens and extension tube exposures and I think it screw up the the cable release function as well.

Great, will try that tonight. Another thing I noticed was the "Exp. SIM", what is that? I don't know if the subject I was shooting makes a difference but it was the Brooklyn Bridge, late at night. So low light conditions with the bridge lights and Manhattan skyline behind it. Thanks

That's exposure simulation - see the details below:

Ok, should I disable it then?

It depends on what you're wanting to do - there's really no right answer. I generally leave it "Enabled" so I have a general idea of how the shot will look (particularly in M mode). When I shot at night, though, I'll set it to "During" so the screen is brighter which helps me manually focus and set tilt/shift on those lenses. I can quickly push the DOF button to get the simulated exposure view. I always rely on the histogram (pre- or post-shot) to get accurate exposure (or expose to the right exposure), though.

 

[ray5]

Thanks a lot! I learn so much everyday from you guys.

 

[Logan]

for night shots, if you have trouble with manual focus (use 10x live view zoom to help), focus once, then switch to manual focus at the lens. then if you dont change subjects or bump the focus ring, you can easily keep the same focus.

you should be able to take note of when the camera is struggling to find focus, it will cycle back and forth through the whole range looking for something. if you have the focus points in blackness it will not work, you need something there for it to "see". if its not even trying to focus, then its a problem with the settings and your release, like others suggested.

 

[ray5]

I have noticed the live view focus is a lot slower in low light, so my guess is it couldn't get focus. You could try "quick focus" in live view, manual pg 207, and see if that helps. But I would use manual focus at night.

I think this was the problem. Is there a downside to leaving it in the "quick mode"?

 

[ray5]

Try this - go into the Live View menu settings and then into the Silent Live View shooting mode settings. Change the setting to “Disable” and it should work. The first two silent Live View settings also disable the use of flash and screw up the older TS-E lens and extension tube exposures and I think it screw up the the cable release function as well.

Done. Haven't tested it though. Any downside of leaving in the disable mode? I just want to keep it simple and not have to switch back and forth unless I really need to. Thanks

 

[ray5]

for night shots, if you have trouble with manual focus (use 10x live view zoom to help), focus once, then switch to manual focus at the lens. then if you dont change subjects or bump the focus ring, you can easily keep the same focus.

you should be able to take note of when the camera is struggling to find focus, it will cycle back and forth through the whole range looking for something. if you have the focus points in blackness it will not work, you need something there for it to "see". if its not even trying to focus, then its a problem with the settings and your release, like others suggested.

Good suggestion. Will do. Thanks

 

[mackguyver]

Try this - go into the Live View menu settings and then into the Silent Live View shooting mode settings. Change the setting to “Disable” and it should work. The first two silent Live View settings also disable the use of flash and screw up the older TS-E lens and extension tube exposures and I think it screw up the the cable release function as well.

Done. Haven't tested it though. Any downside of leaving in the disable mode? I just want to keep it simple and not have to switch back and forth unless I really need to. Thanks

Ray, the only downside is that you can't see the effects of changing the exposure when you use exposure compensation. It will display a nice bright image regardless of your exposure settings. If you cycle the Info button to show the histogram, or check the capture/histogram after taking a photo it's not a big deal. The upside is that it's a lot easier to focus in dark conditions.

Also, quick mode uses phase detect AF which isn't always reliable in low light. The slower contrast AF is generally the most accurate way to AF and actually works in lower light than phase AF. Just make sure to give it an area with some contrast.