Canon EOS R7 Mark II to Drop The Mechanical Shutter?

It does seem like Canon are currently neglecting the macro user lens wise with only the one real option. Hopefully they will up their game over the next year or two.
Indeed…one lens, no extension tubes, etc. They’ve added ‘half-macro’ capability to several non-L primes, but personally I don’t count that. Fortunately, my adapted MP-E 65 continues to work well.
 
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Okay…. But is the banding problem gone?!
Especially for the next pro iterations… I have anxiety that those doesn’t have a mechanical shutter also.
But on the next R7 it would be ok for me.

But more imported: when will be the release?!?! The year is in the half and no big surprise or release yet…. …
 
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Okay…. But is the banding problem gone?!
Banding is an inherent problem with high-speed pulsed LED lighting. It can be mitigated but not eliminated by any shutter that is faster than the pulse frequency. It's a lot like trying to take a photo of an old analog television screen at a shutter speed faster than the refresh rate.

A mechanical shutter can mitigate some of the problems but the key is to have a shutter speed that is not a fractional multiple of the pulse rate.
 
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The R5M2 DR is worse with the electronic shutter. NOTICEABLY worse. It's bad enough that I don't use it anymore. This was pointed out over at Photons to Photos. It's worse in real conditions than they show on their graph.
Can you show it to us?

At low ISO, your claims are wrong, and for high ISO, the difference is less than 0.5.

Or are you trying to pull your -666EV shadows???


1000102248.jpg
 
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Indeed…one lens, no extension tubes, etc. They’ve added ‘half-macro’ capability to several non-L primes, but personally I don’t count that. Fortunately, my adapted MP-E 65 continues to work well.

How do you do focus stacking with the MP-E 65? It only has a single specific focus distance at any specific magnification level. If you move the lens+camera on a macro rail, doesn't the size of the subject change?
 
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How do you do focus stacking with the MP-E 65? It only has a single specific focus distance at any specific magnification level. If you move the lens+camera on a macro rail, doesn't the size of the subject change?
The slice that is in focus will always have the same magnification, so there will be some distortion when stacking. In Helicon Focus that will show as a really weird border around the resulting image. There is some tolerance for that, both Helicon and Zerene can do adjustments to align the pictures, I don't know if they will do single digit percentage resizes or not.
A similar issue exists when keeping the distance the same and changing focus (on a non-fixed focus lens!), all macro lenses that I have used will show heavy focus breathing around MFD, so that may result in an even bigger perspective change than the focus rail.

My focus rail arrived last week, still getting up to speed on 'best practices'. An M6II+MP-E+MR14 is very hit and miss currently, I think I need to practice on a less complex subject. The damselfly exuvia have a lot of overlapping sections that are hard to stack.

This was done handheld using the built-in focus bracketing on the R5II+RF100+EL5, you can see the 'halos' around the legs with the concrete background and around the white cords. I think this is an area where generative 'AI' could be a big help: generating the missing parts and/or removing the bokeh 'haze'. Or learn how to use Photoshop masking and blending :)
Scherm­afbeelding 2025-06-26 om 09.57.17.png
 
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The slice that is in focus will always have the same magnification, so there will be some distortion when stacking. In Helicon Focus that will show as a really weird border around the resulting image. There is some tolerance for that, both Helicon and Zerene can do adjustments to align the pictures, I don't know if they will do single digit percentage resizes or not.
A similar issue exists when keeping the distance the same and changing focus (on a non-fixed focus lens!), all macro lenses that I have used will show heavy focus breathing around MFD, so that may result in an even bigger perspective change than the focus rail.

My focus rail arrived last week, still getting up to speed on 'best practices'. An M6II+MP-E+MR14 is very hit and miss currently, I think I need to practice on a less complex subject. The damselfly exuvia have a lot of overlapping sections that are hard to stack.

This was done handheld using the built-in focus bracketing on the R5II+RF100+EL5, you can see the 'halos' around the legs with the concrete background and around the white cords. I think this is an area where generative 'AI' could be a big help: generating the missing parts and/or removing the bokeh 'haze'. Or learn how to use Photoshop masking and blending :)
View attachment 224831

Thanks for that explanation. I've never done focus stacking, and only played around with an MP-E 65 1X-5X a couple of times many years ago. As in "still shooting film" number of years ago.
 
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I have an R5 but bought the R7 for two reasons - wildlife for the longer reach with my RF100-500 and smaller size - great as a walkabout camera with the Sigma 10-10 or 18-50 attached. I would not want the MKII to have a R5 sized body!
For me, most of the weight saving when using a crop camera is because I can use a smaller lens. The extra weight in the body is not too much of an issue for me. Doubly so if I don’t use the OEM strap to carry it around.
 
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Same here, I have it on the lowest volume setting. It is just the right amount of feedback for me, especially when I set down the camera and something pushes the shutter button. 30fps + CFe will full up your card really fast when that happens!
That's the "nice" thing about the current R7 - happened to me several times, roo, but it's small buffer and slow writing speed on even the fastest SD cards available prevents you from filling up the card accidentally...
 
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Thanks for that explanation. I've never done focus stacking, and only played around with an MP-E 65 1X-5X a couple of times many years ago. As in "still shooting film" number of years ago.
That's why I prefer to use the in-camera focus bracketing with my EF 100mm f/2.8 L IS USM lens because it has an efficient AF and IS. It's magnification does not match the MP-E 65, of course, but extension tubes can help if necessary. If it isn't windy and you can hold still enough, the R7's in-camera focus bracketing can deliver stunning results just the easy way. Best strategy is to reduce the number of stacking images and width of the bracketing depth to a minimum you really need - images that are completely sharp from front to back don't look very natural anyway. Here is an example, a nursery web spider (Pisaura mirabilis): Listspinne Wagbachniederung 30-04-2024 small res.JPG
 
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