Pardon my cheapness, but my definition of "affordable" is under US$1,000.
It may still be a good value on a quality-for-cost basis though.

It may still be a good value on a quality-for-cost basis though.
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The gray market is your friend - soon that lens will be there under 1000.Pardon my cheapness, but my definition of "affordable" is under US$1,000.
It may still be a good value on a quality-for-cost basis though.
I think I'll go pick one up tomorrow. Everyone loves it.
I get it. for me 28-70 was nearly where the 18-55's were and i was used to that range for the most part on the wide. so the loss of 4mm down there doesn't bother me that much.Not for me. The small size, light weight and good IQ are definite strong points but personally I want a broader focal range in a standard zoom for travel, and I have little need for f/2.8. Had a look at the stats from my last few trips with the 24-105/4L, ~25% of shots were wider than 28mm and ~45% of shots were longer than 70mm.
I could see a personal use case for the 28-70/2.8 on an R8 as a second body when my primary combo is the R3 and 100-300/2.8. But so far, it's been working fine to swap lenses for the 24-105/2.8.
Pardon my cheapness, but my definition of "affordable" is under US$1,000.
It may still be a good value on a quality-for-cost basis though.
For me, it's the 24-105/4 and the 10-20/4. I really need to think about whether I should hang on to the 14-35/4, it was my travel UWA zoom when I didn't want the bulk of the EF 11-24/4. Mainly US/EU travel, I've never had a carry on bag weighed.I get it. for me 28-70 was nearly where the 18-55's were and i was used to that range for the most part on the wide. so the loss of 4mm down there doesn't bother me that much.
if i go wide, i usually want far wider than 24mm
So I'd complement this with the 15-30 and still have 2mm of focal overlap.
for over here - I have *maybe* 3kg of wiggle room for camera gear on carry on.
Do I hear the 2010's calling?Pardon my cheapness, but my definition of "affordable" is under US$1,000.
It may still be a good value on a quality-for-cost basis though.
I am in that boat (replacing the 16-35 f/4) But how to deal with filters below 24mm? That is why I keep the 16-35 for now. I invested heavy in LEE filters and like using it.For me, it's the 24-105/4 and the 10-20/4. I really need to think about whether I should hang on to the 14-35/4, it was my travel UWA zoom when I didn't want the bulk of the EF 11-24/4. Mainly US/EU travel, I've never had a carry on bag weighed.
This new "non - L" has a pair of UD elements and a pair of Asherical elements. I don't know if they are moulded or ground.Back in the 90s it was hard to find the clear answer but I did find it in writing somewhere, maybe in their book/catalog "Lens Work II" from around 1997. Their official definition was, from memory, that it had GROUND aspherical (not glass-molded aspherical, abbreviated as "GMO"), Super UD, and/or Fluorite elements. The definition they gave surprisingly did NOT include "pro build quality" or "luxury" as part of the meaning. However that's not to say you're wrong: I'm sure their definition changes every couple years, if they even have a definition, and ultimately, the most accurate definition of what "L" lens is, is the list of lenses that say "L" on them.
I won't go looking through the internet to find data points, but I THINK Super UD has moved down-market to the point maybe many "consumer" lenses have it. Meanwhile I THINK GMO might have moved up-market as they've gotten better at forming it. It's possible that the best differentiator now is whether or not it has weather sealing: I wonder if all L lenses do and all non-L do not? And yet that may change too: why NOT put that little rubber gasket on a 50/1.8 say?
I now use the Kolari magnetic ND filters that go inside the body, I got the 3-6-10 stop set. They work very well with all lenses including the RF 10-20/4, and on longer lenses combine well with a front CPL.I am in that boat (replacing the 16-35 f/4) But how to deal with filters below 24mm? That is why I keep the 16-35 for now. I invested heavy in LEE filters and like using it.
I now use the Kolari magnetic ND filters that go inside the body, I got the 3-6-10 stop set. They work very well with all lenses including the RF 10-20/4, and on longer lenses combine well with a front CPL.
Agreed! Even 1.000 $ doesn't really count as "affordable". For me, "affordable" ends in the price range and the price tag of the 35mm F1.8 and 85mm F2Pardon my cheapness, but my definition of "affordable" is under US$1,000.
It may still be a good value on a quality-for-cost basis though.
The EF 16-35/4 L IS is a winner.then get a variable apeture STM or a used variant
fleabay a lot of EF lenses too like the 24-70/F4L or the 16-35mm F4L
I suggest, since it seems to me that you are using the EF 16-35 f/4L IS USM on the R body, that you try a drop-in adapter with a V-ND filter, and if you also need an additional filter, you can always use it in front of the lens.I am somewhat hesitant about Kolari's solution. If you have to change the filter in certain weather conditions (open camera mount), you seem to run a greater risk of dirt getting into the camera. I sometimes change filters: 3 or 6 stops or together such as 3+10 or ND grad (soft or hard)
But the solution for the 10-20 is certainly interesting.
I prefer to let photos speak for the RF100-400:I think I'll go pick one up tomorrow. Everyone loves it.