Thank you for the kind words, that image in particular has landed me several jobs and actual lead to my current position working with an off road team whose driver used to race a road race car - long story there, but it all started with that photo being seen by the road race team owner.Just looked at your site, and you have excellent work. I especially appreciated your opening image from turn one at Sebring at dusk. I was the track photographer for the 12 hour race in 2016, and I know that image is so important. I am curious about your usage of a CPL filter with cars, especially panning. As a car passes by your position, the reflections move about, plus with the use of multiple tear off front windshield screens on most race cars, they can create additional problems. I have found opening up these areas of the car in post works pretty well. Lastly, using a CPL on a stationary car, reveals too much of the interior (roll cage, etc) which I find distracting. This new lens is primarily designed for indoor sports, and it will have great sales just for that. BTW, for the 1960 Olympics in Toyko, Nikon produced a handful of 300mm F2.0 lenses. I can't imagine shooting with that manual focus monster and pushing ISO 400 film as well.
But you bring up an incredibly important fact about using a CPL shooting racing. It needs to be turned often depending on the angle of the shot you're trying to capture. I enter a corner and watch the behavior of the cars to see the shot I want and position myself accordingly. Tracking the cars I make the slight rotation of the CPL to get the look down the side or the front of the car (depending on the time of day). Having quick and easy access to a rear CPL and being able to rotate it easily is wonderful. The new lens design would require me to loosen and remove the hood every time I need to do this. (the window on the 70-200/100-500 is very useful!)
I take it that you are not a fan of CPLs? haha For stationary cars I typically composite because of my lighting technique. I will rotate the CPL for the windshield for one shot and rotate for the side of the car for the remaining shots. The goal is to eliminate reflections or bring out the most desired crisp horizon line. Being able to remove reflections when and where you want is important when you're essentially shooting a reflective surface.
I see that Canon is now describing this lens as an indoor sports lens on their website. That's a major bummer for me. Having a 300 f/2.8, 420 f/4, and 600 f/5.6 in one lens has proven to be the best investment in my lens collection at any track I find myself at.
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