OldDude ... how many images do you take during an "event"? I suspect you are taking video ... whole different kind of use?
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Canon EOS R5 Mark II user feedback and discussion
- Thread starter tomislavmoze
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I’d say test it. The R5II has a new battery, so my experience won’t help. Last time I used my camera was exactly two weeks ago, a half day of birding with a bit over 700 shots, and the battery has been in the camera since. It’s at 50% charge now. But I have an R3 with the big LP-E19 battery.
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If you don’t have it set to ‘airplane mode’, you can inadvertently connect your phone and have it drain faster. And every few months one of my R bodies decides to completely drain the battery overnight, I haven’t figured out why, but the R5, R7 and R8 all did that, at least once.
I’ve gotten into the habit of connecting the camera to a USB-C charger before breakfast when I plan to go on an outing that day. If the green charging light on the camera is still on when I’m packing, I check how full it is. I’ve caught an overnight discharge that way
Most of the time the R5 still had a full battery after a week, I haven’t had the R5II for a week yet, so I can’t say how that behaves.
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On the R5 the drain from the top display is +/- 2-3% in a week. The Mk II seems similar. My experience with the R5 is that when putting away the camera fully charged, the battery is at +/- 80-85% after about three weeks.
My routine is to check battery levels and recharge if needed the afternoon before I go out the next morning (usually early to catch the morning light around sunrise).
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After some delays with shipping, today I finally had all the parts to take the MK II out for a spin. MK II, B20 grip, two LP-E6P batteries, all wireless turned off, using the RF600 f/4 w/1.4x. After some initial tweaks on the AF and the sun became more consistent, switched to precapture and got a few flight sequences. Took about 2100 shots of chipmunks, birds and a bobcat, with the batteries showing 50/51%. The precapture definitely adds some bonus shots. Overall much faster focus lock and it stayed stuck on the desire subject a majority of the time. The afternoon was at the river and there was a lack of subjects. A pair Reddish Egrets in the distance then had a Tri-colored Heron fly over and pose, really too close, then a few sequences with it fishing before it followed a Snowy further down the river. Did some other flight shots and noticed the rolling shutter with the background is effectively gone. My initial take is this is definitely an improvement over the original. May try some video tomorrow but that's never been a priority for me.
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I also took my R5 Mk2 out this morning with my RF 400 mm f2.8 + 2x TC. Recapture helped a bit, but honestly wildlife was a bit sparse. I also found that it was much faster to lock focus on the birds without being distracted by nearby branches and leaves. Moreover, once you locked on the subject it was stuck and did not get distracted. IMO even a bit better than the AF on the R3, but much better AF than the R5, which I used for a while. I am impressed. I am still dialing in my default settings on the camera as well.
Just FYI B&H has a sale on Prograde Cobalt v4 cards. A pair of 1.3 TB cards goes for $1350, which is $400 off the normal two-pack price.
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The top display on the R5 shouldn't drain anything when the camera is turned off.
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I’m not sure what world you live in, but here in the real world LCDs require power.
Or perhaps you’re unaware of the fact that newer cameras display the mode on the top LCD even with the power ‘off’.
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Has anyone gotten the MF override to work? On my R8 I can turn the focus ring on the 100-500 and it will change focus accordingly, that doesn’t work with the RF100L. On my R5II neither of those lenses can be focused using their focus ring in AF mode 
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I wanted to give some feedback from the limited testing I did last night. The low light performance of the mark 2 seems decent though once the sun went completely down and I only had artificial light, I switched to my R3. The focus tracking seemed kind of the middle of the road, on the R3 I can put my focus reticle on an athlete (or whatever I am shooting) and it will lock on to their face with a decent accuracy, I was not able to do this (was not an option it seemed or is buggy) with the R5m2. I would select my subject, half-press focus and the AF would just start seeking random faces, including those adjacent to the subject instead of seeking the subject I was interested in. This may be that I have not fully tweaked all of the settings to get the results that I want but is worth noting. I switched off subject tracking and just let the camera focus on the reticle and this seemed to perform well enough. The focus shifting when keeping the half-press focus and panning multiple subjects seems decent enough, the R3 does seem to be a little faster at this but the M2 does a decent enough job for shooting runners. I hope to maybe go to a practice where I would not plan to keep the pictures to play with the settings and get it set how I want it.
One thing that is a severe hinderance for using this for what I primarily shoot is the buffer size. While I never ran dry last night, there were fewer team runners and they were not clustered together like they typically are in their races. I would have to switch to jpg/jpg if I ever plan to shoot these events with this camera as I can practically guarantee I will run the buffer out at most races and be stuck holding the button and getting nothing. I agree with those that dislike the buffer behavior and would MUCH prefer it just slow down instead of stop. Setup for shooting last night was raw/jpg 20fps ES.
One thing that is a severe hinderance for using this for what I primarily shoot is the buffer size. While I never ran dry last night, there were fewer team runners and they were not clustered together like they typically are in their races. I would have to switch to jpg/jpg if I ever plan to shoot these events with this camera as I can practically guarantee I will run the buffer out at most races and be stuck holding the button and getting nothing. I agree with those that dislike the buffer behavior and would MUCH prefer it just slow down instead of stop. Setup for shooting last night was raw/jpg 20fps ES.
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Making Pre-Capture available to turn on / off more easily in the Canon R5 Mk2
I have spent a good part of my morning setting up menus and custom settings in my R5 Mk2. In doing this I found a trick to make it easier to enable or disable the Pre-capture feature.
1) Assign the SET button to access the Quick Control Screen; this allows you to readily access it whether you are shooting horizontally or vertically.
2) Go to the camera settings (red) menu and Customize Quick Controls.
3) Once in the Customize Quick Controls add Pre-cont. shooting icon to the controls and position it as you see fit. I put it first in my menu.
In my Quick Controls menu I have only four items displayed in the top left corner: Pre-cont. shooting, Subject to detect, Drive Mode, and Silent Shutter function.
With this setup I can hit the SET button twice and then toggle between Pre-cont. shooting being enabled or disabled. I have it enabled by default.
I realize that this is not as easy as toggling by pressing button, but it is the best solution I found.
Good luck and enjoy.
I have spent a good part of my morning setting up menus and custom settings in my R5 Mk2. In doing this I found a trick to make it easier to enable or disable the Pre-capture feature.
1) Assign the SET button to access the Quick Control Screen; this allows you to readily access it whether you are shooting horizontally or vertically.
2) Go to the camera settings (red) menu and Customize Quick Controls.
3) Once in the Customize Quick Controls add Pre-cont. shooting icon to the controls and position it as you see fit. I put it first in my menu.
In my Quick Controls menu I have only four items displayed in the top left corner: Pre-cont. shooting, Subject to detect, Drive Mode, and Silent Shutter function.
With this setup I can hit the SET button twice and then toggle between Pre-cont. shooting being enabled or disabled. I have it enabled by default.
I realize that this is not as easy as toggling by pressing button, but it is the best solution I found.
Good luck and enjoy.
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P-visie - thanks for the reference point. That level (2-3%) is certainly 'acceptable' ... however, I would prefer the camera to go into full off
at some controllable (setting) point. I see zero value in having the display show the mode when the camera is off. I guess this is Canon's
way to 'appease' the guys who are used to being able to see the current mode on the cameras with a wheel. I actually like the idea that I
can check/see the mode with the camera off - when I'm in the field and shooting. I turn my camera off literally "all the time" and only
leave it on when I'm actually 'engaged with a bird(s)' and just taking the camera away from my eye for a bit. So maybe I'd like something
like "the camera automatically goes to full off after 15 minutes or so" - but would really prefer to set that to my own choice.
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Or they could change the display to one similar to what some E-readers (kindle) do where the only time power is needed is to change the contents of the display rather than keep it on.
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According to Canon (link), the top LCD of the R3 (and presumably the R5 II as well, unless you have different information from Canon) is a 128x128 dot reflective memory LCD, aka a memory-in-pixel (MIP) display. The EL-5 uses that type of LCD, as well, though obviously it’s larger.
The power consumption of an MIP LCD is substantially lower than most LCDs, but it is continuous. They aren’t bistable displays like e-ink that use power only when they change.
If you don’t believe the specs and you’re right that it’s an e-ink display, when you pull the battery the display will not change.
View attachment IMG_9966.mov
That was me unlocking then re-locking the R3 battery (for these white-on-black displays, power is delivered to the ‘background’ pixels to turn them black). It’s an easy enough test, something you probably should have done yourself before making an incorrect statement that’s so easily refuted.
So yes, the top LCD drains the battery even when the power is off, albeit very slowly.
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It won't really be noticeable (not even close to 3% of battery a week).
At ~15 microwatt, such a screen will drain the Canon battery in about 1 million hours, if my calculations aren't wrong. The battery discharges faster on its own.
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