Canon EOS R1 Spotted in the wild at the Monaco GP
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Same, except once to test it when I first got the camera. Silent mode requires ES and is great, I have the photo/video switch assigned to that since I shoot concerts often. Just need to remember that in silent mode the flash doesn’t fire, and the shutter doesn’t close to cover the sensor when the camera is powered off (but I did find that moving the photo/video toggle closes the shutter even with the camera off).
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Whaaat? That's not good. Maybe the camera gets even hotter during the second phase (just an improbable idea) ?Yeah I've already mentioned it above. With an example of hot pixels coming out of LENR...
I took 20 sec astro shots and I didn't notice anything. What was your input from 5Dx series. I had taken a super long night exposure with 5DmkIII to blur the sea and lessen the noise with LENR and I had no issues.
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I got interesting info from this post and I thank you for that. I re-checked the few astrophotos I have taken the last years using 5D4 and R5 and I saw that I had NOT set LNER. This was justified for 5D4 since the shot I checked was one of the many that were taken to make a timelapse. I was astonished to not find hot pixels (shots at ISO 5000 and 20sec). But the shots I had taken with R5 exhibited a few hot pixels. I was unexcusable to not apply my own advise (really shame on me since I was not shooting a timelapse). The shots with R5 were taken at ISO 1600 and 13 to 15 sec. There were not many hot pixels and I had to search for them. It would be interesting though to see how R5 would behave with LNER set to ON.Yeah I've already mentioned it above. With an example of hot pixels coming out of LENR...
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Taking dark frames rather than doubling your exposure times with LENR is definitely preferable and simple with the lens cover on.
That said, I don't really use it for hot pixels as LR does a sterling job but rather than noise reduction averaging multiple dark frames.
The tricky part (as you say) is to have a similar temperature as the sensor needs to settle down after transport (eg warm car) and can be different through the night.
Besides reducing dew, a dew heater will also keep the camera at a constant temperature even if the sensor is warmer than without it.
Ultimately, Topaz AI denoise can do a great job of reducing noisy images and is less noticeable with high res / multi-panel / high mp images.
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How many stops of contrast is in the images? I find that pushing more than 3 stops of shadows for the R5 is too much.Yeah I've already mentioned it above. With an example of hot pixels coming out of LENR...
Noise reduction (eg Topaz) seems to do a better job of reducing noise and hot pixels.
I wonder whether your sensor has a lot more hot pixels than mine for instance and cloning them out would be the worst case solution.
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I tried for indoor sports which is my requirement for fastest fps but found the banding was too hard to fix in post. Back to mechanical H+. I might try EFCS this weekend and see what the difference is.
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I pulled a 2 minute exposure (ISO800) ie 1 panel of a milky way shoot last year in LR and did a screengrab of the foreground (bottom quarter).Yeah I've already mentioned it above. With an example of hot pixels coming out of LENR...
No noise reduction, dark frame or LENR applied. Default profile in LR with no adjustments besides chromatic aberration removal.
Note that it was using an astro tracker so LR might not have removed them automatically because of this.
I counted ~16 hot pixels with most being white. The green ones are most noticeable but the white ones are barely visible even at 100%.
I have ignored other lights from different shooters which are separate to hot pixels.
Note that the foreground is just for horizon alignment as it is replaced with a separate foreground taken during twilight so it a moot issue in this case.
Of course, hot pixels would also be in the sky but I haven't had a situation where they have been noticeable enough to warrant any attention in post.
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With 5DIV I didn't actually have the hot pixel issue and I didn't even use the LENR. It had banding in the deep shadows though, also noticeable at high ISO - but it would show at short exposures too.
With the R5, astro shots are typically around 15-20 seconds and the hot pixels are not very bad. They're hard to notice among the stars. In the land/foreground, the hot pixels pop when you lift the shadows, otherwise you may not see too many.
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Maybe Canon invented catalytic biophotography? Did anyone notice a recent Canon patent linked with that?
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You don't have to put camera in silent mode, just set it to electronic shutter, turn off all of the sounds and the shutter closes when you turn off the camera. Haven't seen any benefits of the silent mode.
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The R5 is actually very good at pushing the shadows - apart from the hot pixels, the shadows are good and that's why the R5 has high dynamic range.
Without tone curve adjustments, there's not too many hot pixels. But as I said, the hot pixels pop in large quantities when you push the shadows and it doesn't have to be a 3-stop push. Just usual tone curve adjustments, normal for landscape photography.
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not blown away. 24mp, very disappointing for landscape and very detailed images. no interest in the r5. the r1 was the last hope i had for staying with canon and I am not impressed. heads up canon junkies, there will soon be some very gently used EF cameras and L lenses listed on ebay real soon. so long canon, Nikon all the way from here
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That seems more like a zoomable extension tube.
It would still be pretty amazing if it could retain autofocus.
BTW I saw this from Richard before I saw this from you.
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